world for collaboration was Staffonly

 Another to look towards the outside world for collaboration was Staffonly, which partnered with American footwear brand Ugg for its ‘Orbit Voyagers’ show. For the show, Ugg supplied styles from its Foamo Slide and Tasman series, further bolstering the otherworldly feel the brand wanted to portray. The concept for the shoes was co-created with industrial designer Ah Bin, who developed a concept that utilised 3D printing technology to produce silhouettes that took on gravity-defying forms. Like the shoes, the rest of the collection also drew inspiration from worlds beyond, particularly referencing the planet Saturn, as seen in the prominent use of looped details and ringed prints.

Meanwhile, other brands were simply returning to their home country after stepping away from Shanghai in the years prior. Milan Fashion Week attendee Shuting Qiu had taken to living in Europe for several months before coming back to the city to present her autumn/winter 2023 line, with the goal of opening up a new vision for designers. Her time in the Western continent was mirrored in her inspiration for the collection, with references to Czech abstract painter Frantisek Kupka, whose work appeared in the use of floral patterns and prints. Sustainability and tech were also present in the line, with 60 percent of fabrics made of more sustainable and environmentally friendly materials – as noted in a release – and artificial intelligence (AI) incorporated into the creation of bodysuits.

Shuting Qiu AW23, Shanghai Fashion Week. Image: Dia Communications,Tube Showroom

collaborations to a physical presence in china

 It must be noted that many of the brands presenting under Tube already have their own international presence, but opted to show at Shanghai Fashion Week this year to back the country’s revival and for their own convenience. A significant part of a handful of shows was notable collaborations with global brands. For Shie Lyu, who founded her brand in New York before moving back to China, this came in the form of a partnership with British designer Stella McCartney. While Lyu centred her theme around ‘Land Mermaids’, seen in fishtail inspired detailings, her idea to transform suit fabrics came from her creative corporation with McCartney, through which the duo have exchanged a set of their own designs for the other to freely modify. Like McCartney, Lyu also adheres to the concept of sustainability using her own zero-waste production technology. Her values were also present through support from Japan’s Ultrasuede, an artificial substitute for suede leather, which allowed her to use materials that are made to endure.

China’s showrooms prepare for international come back

 China’s luxury market took a hit in 2022, ending a five-year run of growth in the region as it faced the aftermath of lengthy lockdowns and heightened Covid-19 measures. However, as 2023 progresses, it appears the sector is once again on its way up, as brands and retailers cautiously emerge from confinement and begin to reinvent themselves for both the domestic and global industry. This is according to Bain & Company, which forecasted that China was expected to see positive conditions already return before the end of Q1 this year.

This optimism is something that showrooms in China are beginning to latch on to, as displayed in a slew of fashion industry events that have resurged after three years. Marketing agency Dia Creative Communications is one of those relying on the growing anticipation of the year ahead. The company once again took to the fashion season with the launch of its Tube Showroom concept, a project it initially debuted in 2015 that looks to showcase and promote young designers by connecting them with a wider network of brands, media and sales channels – contrasting the traditional function of a showroom.