Each season, Paris is the final stop on the fashion tour and, arguably, the most important. For the upcoming fall winter season fw23, designers showing in the French capital signaled a renewed respect for traditional tailoring. The four major trends all contained elements of the haute couture, with its focus on enhancing the shape of the body.
It’s all Greek
The French couturier, Madame Gres, is often attributed with creating the first ‘Grecian’ draped jersey gowns. Draping fabric to enhance female curves has endured to this day. A number of ultra glamorous looks were on display in Paris this season.
Atlein #15
From Antonin Tron, an olive stretch jersey off-the shoulder top and a lilac satin floor-length draped skirt was shown with white hose and sandals.
Lanvin #41
Bruno Sialelli showed a teal gown with an asymmetric shoulder-line and a metal detail. It was draped at the waist and accessorized with black boots embellished with heart shaped studs.
Rokh #18
Designer Rok Hwang showed a nude-colored floor-length ruched jersey dress. Knotting the fabric created an ultra-feminine silhouette. Gold jewelry and a brown tote completed the look.
Shoulder on
Tailored separates dominated the runways of Paris. For the most part, jackets had a masculine appeal with bold shoulder lines reminiscent of ‘eighties ‘power dressing.’
Balenciaga #11
From Demna, a double-breasted broad shouldered, grey plaid blazer and knickerbockers were shown with black sock boots.
Saint Laurent #6
Anthony Vaccarello showed a broad-shouldered white jacket, over a knit top with a deep scoop neck and a straight black leather skirt. Accessories included silver hoops, black sunglasses, sheer black hose and pointy toed ankle strap shoes.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood #20
The designer showed a broad-shouldered blouson jacket and matching mini kilt in black, grey and red plaid. The look was accessorized with yellow and red print leggings with a black overlay and classic Westwood platforms.
Distress signals
Deconstructed and distressed knitwear can be traced back to the early designs of Martin Margiela circa 1990s; and in recent seasons has made a come-back. It was a common theme this time around in Paris.
Acne #29
Designer Jonny Johansson delivered a floor-length deconstructed moss green knit slip dress studded with crocheted florals and hanging threads. Matching sandals completed the look.
Off-White #24
Ibrahim Kamara showed a three piece set including a zip front turtleneck, pants and a tunic in laddered sweater knits in shades of orange, green and brown. The look was accessorized with yellow lizard boots and a yellow bag.
Alexander McQueen #34
She’s a lady
Perhaps as a counterpoint to three years of casual work-from-home wardrobing, designers offered up ladylike ready-to-wear items. Inspiration seemed to partly come from the long-lasting appeal of tweed and bouclé at Chanel.
Chloe #30
Gabriela Hearst showed a two-piece skirt suit in cream bouclé. The jacket was collarless and fastened with one gold button at the neck and the skirt was straight and mid-length. Both had a raw edge. A brown pebble leather hand held satchel and black platform boots completed the look.
Christian Dior #6
From Maria Grazia Chiuri, a two-piece suit in black and white houndstooth check, reminiscent of the house’s designs of the ‘fifties. The four-button jacket was cropped over a mid-length pencil skirt. Accessories included black mid-calf ankle socks and spectator Mary-Janes.
Giambattista Valli #5
The designer showed a black and white short tweed oversized coat and a minidress with intricate gold embroidery. Black hose and pointed toe slingbacks completed the look.